Africa

Sudden Departure from Fez - Arrive at Mequinez - Attend the Emperor - Melancholy Catastrophe - Expedition against wild Beasts - Extensive Palaces - Seraglio - Visit a Haram - Founders of the City - A fortified Town - Inhabitants - Jewish Town - Rich Attire of the higher Orders - Numerous Market-places - Furniture - Saints' Houses - Imperial Field Sports - Pack of Greyhounds - Abundance of Game.

Mequinez.

1920

by Edith Wharton

I

Having begun my book with the statement that Morocco still lacks a guide-book, I should have wished to take a first step toward remedying that deficiency.

I

LEAVING TANGIER

To step on board a steamer in a Spanish port, and three hours later to land in a country without a guide-book, is a sensation to rouse the hunger of the repletest sight-seer.

I

VOLUBILIS

One day before sunrise we set out from Rabat for the ruins of Roman Volubilis.

I

THE FIRST VISION

Many-walled Fez rose up before us out of the plain toward the end of the day.

I

THE WAY THERE

There are countless Arab tales of evil Djinns who take the form of sandstorms and hot winds to overwhelm exhausted travellers.

I

THE CROWD IN THE STREET

To occidental travellers the most vivid impression produced by a first contact with the Near East is the surprise of being in a country where the human element increases instead of diminishing the delight of the eye.

I

It is not too much to say that General Lyautey has twice saved Morocco from destruction: once in 1912, when the inertia and double-dealing of Abd-el-Hafid abandoned the country to the rebellious tribes who had attacked him in Fez, and the second time in August, 1914, when Germany declared war on France.

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