North America

PAPER CANOE MARIA THERESA. - THE START. - THE DESCENT OF THE HUDSON RIVER. - CROSSING THE UPPER BAY OF NEW YORK. - PASSAGE OF THE KILLS. - RARITAN RIVER - THE CANAL ROUTE FROM NEW BRUNSWICK TO THE DELAWARE RIVER. - FROM BORDENTOWN TO PHILADELPHIA.

DESCENT OF DELAWARE RIVER. - MY FIRST CAMP. - BOMBAY HOOK. - MURDERKILL CREEK. - A STORM IN DELAWARE BAY. - CAPSIZING OF THE CANOE. - A SWIM FOR LIFE. - THE PERSIMMON GROVE. - WILLOW GROVE INN. - THE LIGHTS OF CAPES MAY AND HENLOPEN.

THE PORTAGE TO LOVE CREEK. - THE DELAWARE WHIPPINGPOST. - REHOBOTH AND INDIAN RIVER BAYS. - A PORTAGE TO LITTLE ASSAWAMAN BAY. - ISLE OF WIGHT BAY. - WINCHESTER PLANTATION. - CHINCOTEAGUE. - WATCHAPREAGUE INLET. - COBB'S ISLAND. - CHERRYSTONE. - ARRIVAL AT NORFOLK. - THE "LANDMARK'S" ENTERPRISE.

THE ELIZABETH RIVER. - THE CANAL. - NORTH LANDING RIVER. - CURRITUCK SOUND. - ROANOKE ISLAND. - VISIT TO BODY ISLAND LIGHT-HOUSE. - A ROMANCE OF HISTORY. - PAMPLICO SOUND. - THE PAPER CANOE ARRIVES AT CAPE HATTERAS.

CAPE HATTERAS LIGHT. - HABITS OF BIRDS. - STORM AT HATTERAS INLET - MILES OF WRECKS. - THE YACHT JULIA SEARCHING FOR THE PAPER CANOE. - CHASED BY PORPOISES. - MARSH TACKIES. - OCRACOKE INLET. - A GRAVE-YARD BEING SWALLOWED UP BY THE SEA. - CORE SOUND. - THREE WEDDINGS AT HUNTING QUARTERS. - MOREHEAD CITY. - NEWBERN. - SWANSBORO. - A PEA-NUT PLANTATION. - THE ROUTE TO CAPE FEAR.

A PORTAGE TO LAKE WACCAMAW. - THE SUBMERGED SWAMPS. - NIGHT AT A TURPENTINE DISTILLER - A DISMAL WILDERNESS. - OWLS AND MISTLETOE. - CRACKERS AND NEGROES. - ACROSS THE SOUTH CAROLINA LINE. - A CRACKER'S IDEA OF HOSPITALITY. - POT BLUFF. - PEEDEE RIVER. - GEORGETOWN. - WINYAH BAY. - THE RICE PLANTATIONS OF THE SANTEE RIVERS. - A NIGHT WITH THE SANTEE NEGROES. - ARRIVAL AT CHARLESTON.

THE INTERIOR WATER ROUTE TO JEHOSSEE ISLAND. - GOVERNOR AIKEN'S MODEL RICE PLANTATION. - LOST IN THE HORNS. - ST. HELENA SOUND. - LOST IN THE NIGHT. - THE PHANTOM SHIP. - A FINLANDER'S WELCOME. - A NIGHT ON THE EMPEROR S OLD YACHT. - THE PHOSPHATE MINES. - COOSAW AND BROAD RIVERS. - PORT ROYAL SOUND AND CALIBOQUE SOUND. - CUFFY 'S HOME. - ARRIVAL IN GEORGIA. - RECEPTIONS AT GREENWICH SHOOTING-PARK.

The appearance of Desolation Canyon had changed entirely in the lower end. Instead of a straight canyon without a break, we were surrounded by mountain peaks nearly 2500 feet high, with many side canyon between them and with little level parks at the end of the canyons beside the river. The tops were pine-covered; cedars clung to the rocky slopes. Some of these peaks were not unlike the formations of the Grand Canyon, as seen from the inner plateau, and the red colouring was once more found in the rocks.

"Mexico is a good place to keep away from just at present." This was the invariable answer to a few casual inquiries concerning what I would be likely to meet with in the way of difficulties, a possible companion for the voyage to the Gulf, and how one could get back when once there. I received little encouragement from the people of Yuma. The cautions came not from the timid who see danger in every rumour, but from the old steamboat captains, the miners, and prospectors who knew the country and had interests in mineral claims across the border.

Thursday, October the 19th. We embarked again with two of our new-found friends on board as passengers for a short ride, their intention being to hunt as they walked back. They left us at a ranch beside the San Rafael River, a small stream entering from the west. They left some mail with us to be delivered to Mr. Wolverton, whose son we had met above. About 20 miles below Green River we reached his home. Judging by a number of boats - both motor and row boats - tied to his landing, Mr. Wolverton was an enthusiastic river-man.